Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Lindo Mindo, and some things that don't rhyme as well

The Terabita that took us 500m to the land of waterfalls



This past weekend I checked out of the smog and into a cloudforest two hours north of Quito with a travel buddy also from UMass.  Mindo is a birder's paradise, as even our untrained eyes found two species of toucan, ears heard the witch-like cackling of some mysterious bird cloaked in red and blue, and behinds got a front-row seat to hummingbird world.  Who knows what someone who actually knew what to look for would have found...  ain't that always the case?

Happily taking advantage of our classless Friday, we took a "tarabita" cable car 530m from one mountain to another, and from there trekked up and down its side to visit five waterfalls. Unfortunately, the prospect of a frigid dip in the cascades is about as inviting as bare, wet ankles are to every bug on the ascent back up through the cloud forest.  I compromised with a dip up to the thighs as trav buddy stood under the main cascade without a second thought of consequences. 

While zip-lining appears to be something akin to skydiving, it’s really more like sitting in a swing and enjoying a beautiful view than feeling any sort of adrenaline rush.  Tubing, however, appears to be something akin to a lazy river hour when in reality sitting on the triangular intersection of three tubes tied together as part of a huge network of tied tubes is 25 minutes of exhileration.  Worth the goosebumps.  There were two guides who ensured that our huge vehicle didn’t capsize or get stuck on rocks, and after two quick minutes of jumbled Spanish instruction we were off.  They wore wet-suits and tall boots, kicking off of oncoming boulders and tugging us behind while navigating the river.  No esta nada.  Meanwhile we’re in helmets and lifejackets.
Later I saw a man on a motorcycle, which would have been normal if it hadn't been for his near-infant, with his first tuft of hair blowing in the wind, riding in the front.  Either we're too safety-conscious in the US or are these guys too lax.
Regardless, I'm concluding that Mindo's community life was just as much of a spectacle as well.  I watched as our 14 year-old “waiter” went to the vegetable stand across the street to fetch some of the ingredients that, five minutes later, turned into lunch.  I can't help but think that money just circulates amongst the various storeowners as they give each other business. 
Leaves that size are a wonder to me, too

giant leaf, crouching David



"downtown" Mindo



 
Cuz what else is there to?  More importantly, how could there be a better way to pass an afternoon?

For a place with such action-packed options during the day, there isn’t a lot luring a traveler toward Mindo nightlife.  We sipped on chocolate caliente and sat outside, reveling in the community feel of this one main strip of restaurants and convenience stores.  Without tourism brought in by the natural life, even this little street wouldn’t have been so bustling.  All were perfectly content spending their Friday night enjoying each other’s company, as everyone seemed to know everyone.  



   Since Ecuador is so small, and the scenery changes so quickly, I hope to be spending most of my weekends soaking in as many vistas as possible.  It's easy to travel, as buses run daily in every direction, from markets to the coast to climbing destinations to the rain forest.  The general rule of thumb is that for every hour of travel, the ticket price increases by $1.  Just to give an idea of our budget for this first trip:
-$2.50 for the 2.5 hr bus ride from Quito--> Mindo, same for return
-$6/night for a private room and bath at one of the many hostals on the main st
-$2.50-$3 per meal, including drink, appetizer, and full entree
-$10 ziplining
-$6 tubing
-$5 cable car to waterfalls
Easy peasy to have fun on a shoestring.  Frugality comes at its own price, though.  We opted out of the $8 taxi ride to take us to the Tarabita, and ended up walking 6km up the mountain to get to the cable car.  On the way back, with toes protesting my choice of footwear, I cursed our frugality (cheapness).  However, I'm learning that it pays off to JUST DO IT, as if it weren't for our 45-minute descent we never would have come across these fellows:

Big fat mean green
We baited him with fruit loops

More on school life at the fancy USFQ later, when I can share the pictures of the pagoda, pastel architecture, and the hundreds of supermodels taking classes here, all of whom make me wish I hadn’t forgotten my pair of high-heeled pumps I usually wear to class at home (oh wait..).  This is the most expensive university in Ecuador, and while at a whopping $5K a year it’s no GW University, it's no wonder that everyone here dresses to impress.  Voluptuous hair, big shades, unfathomably large bags to replace the fashion faux pas that is the backpack, and the occasional piece of tape hiding a recent nosejob.  Apparently nosejobs are inexpensive here, and it’s commonplace to continue attending school unabashed while the new nose awaits its grand unveiling.  Like I said, more to come, especially if I can snap some of those winners...


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